Heating · Radiators

Central heating that reaches every room.

One bedroom freezing, the front room roasting, a radiator cold at the bottom, pipes that tick and bang at night. Most of this is fixable without a new boiler. We find what is wrong with the system and put it right.

  • Gas Safe registered
  • MCS heat pumps
  • F-Gas certified
Period column radiator in a Victorian room

What’s included

The work, done properly.

  • Radiators replaced, resized or moved
  • Thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) fitted and replaced
  • System balancing so the far rooms get their share of heat
  • Pump, motorised valve and zone valve repairs
  • Leaking valves, joints and corroded radiators
  • Period-style column and designer radiators fitted
  • Feed and expansion tank and loft tank problems

Signs you need this

  • Radiators cold at the top (air) or cold at the bottom (sludge)
  • Rooms near the boiler hot, rooms furthest away barely warm
  • Ticking, gurgling or banging pipes
  • Black or rust-coloured water when you bleed a radiator
  • A radiator or valve weeping onto the floor

A radiator cold at the top has air in it, and bleeding it usually fixes the problem. A radiator hot at the top and cold at the bottom has sludge, mostly black magnetite from steel radiators slowly corroding from the inside, and bleeding will not help. That needs a clean, then a magnetic filter and inhibitor to stop it coming back.

Uneven heat is often a balancing problem rather than a broken part. Water takes the easiest route, so the radiators nearest the boiler take most of the flow and the far bedroom gets what is left. Tall Georgian and Victorian townhouses, with long pipe runs over four or five floors, show it most. Setting each lockshield valve carefully, with a thermometer, fixes more cold rooms than people expect.

In Victorian and Edwardian terraces we often find radiators sized for draughty rooms that have since been insulated, or one small radiator under the window of a large bay-fronted room. Sizing radiators to each room’s heat loss matters even more if a heat pump is in your future, because heat pumps run at lower temperatures.

How it works

01

Walk the system

Every radiator, valve and the pump, not just the one you called about.

02

Find the cause

Air, sludge, a sticking valve, or a system that has never been balanced.

03

Fix and balance

We repair or replace what is needed, then set the lockshield valves so heat reaches every room.

04

Heat up and check

We run the system from cold and check each room before we leave.

  • Gas Safe registeredEvery gas job is done by an engineer on the Gas Safe Register.
  • MCS-certified heat pumpsRequired for Boiler Upgrade Scheme grants.
  • F-Gas certifiedAir conditioning and refrigerant work done to the regulations.
  • Fully insuredPublic liability cover, with certificates for freeholders and agents.

Book central heating & radiators

Tell us what’s going on.

Send the address and a few details. We’ll confirm timing and next steps, and you’ll get a written price before any work starts.

Prefer to talk? 020 7946 0182

Questions

Central heating & radiators, answered.

Should I bleed my radiators?

If they are cold at the top, yes. Turn the heating off, let it cool, open the bleed valve with a radiator key until water appears, then check the boiler pressure. On a sealed system you may need to top it up afterwards.

Can you fit period radiators in an old house?

Yes. Cast iron and steel column radiators suit Victorian and Edwardian rooms well. Cast iron is heavy when full, so we check the floor and fixings before fitting.

Do I need a TRV on every radiator?

Most radiators benefit from one. The usual exception is the room with the main thermostat, where a TRV can fight the thermostat; that radiator is normally left without one or set fully open.

Related services

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