Tell us what it is doing
The make and model, any fault code, the pressure reading and whether you still have hot water.
Heating · Boiler repair
No heating or hot water? We find out why.
A fault code on the display, pressure that keeps dropping, a boiler that fires up and then locks out, hot taps fine but radiators stone cold. A Gas Safe registered engineer diagnoses the fault on site, shows you what failed, and fixes it with the right part rather than the nearest guess.
- Gas Safe registered
- MCS heat pumps
- F-Gas certified
What’s included
The work, done properly.
- Full diagnosis: fault codes, gas pressure, flue and combustion checks
- Ignition, flame sensing and fan faults
- Diverter valve, pump and pressure relief valve repairs
- Low pressure, leaks and expansion vessel recharging
- Circuit board, sensor and thermistor replacement
- Frozen condensate pipes thawed, rerouted or insulated
Signs you need this
- No heating, no hot water, or neither
- The pressure gauge is below 1 bar, or drops again after you top it up
- A fault code or flashing light that a reset does not clear
- Gurgling and a lockout during a hard frost
- Hot water that runs hot, then cold, then hot again
- Water dripping from the boiler or the copper pipe outside the wall
Most breakdowns come down to a short list: pressure lost through a weeping valve or a radiator leak, a diverter valve sticking so the hot taps work but the heating does not, a pump seized with sludge, a condensate pipe frozen solid on the first hard frost, or an ignition fault after years without a service. Topping the pressure up without finding where the water went only buys a few days, so we find the leak first.
On a sealed system the gauge usually sits at about 1 to 1.5 bar when cold; your boiler manual gives the exact figure. If it keeps falling, the water is going somewhere. A common culprit is a flat expansion vessel, which lets the pressure climb as the system heats until the relief valve opens and dumps water outside, then leaves it low again once it cools.
If you smell gas, leave the property, do not use light switches or anything that could spark, and call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999. Call us once they have made it safe.
How it works
Find the fault
We test before we swap parts. You see the readings and the component that failed.
Agree the repair
Options and a written price before work starts. If a part has to be ordered, we say so.
Fix and check
We repair it, check the flue and combustion, and run heating and hot water before we leave.
- Gas Safe registeredEvery gas job is done by an engineer on the Gas Safe Register.
- MCS-certified heat pumpsRequired for Boiler Upgrade Scheme grants.
- F-Gas certifiedAir conditioning and refrigerant work done to the regulations.
- Fully insuredPublic liability cover, with certificates for freeholders and agents.
Book boiler repair
Tell us what’s going on.
Send the address and a few details. We’ll confirm timing and next steps, and you’ll get a written price before any work starts.
Prefer to talk? 020 7946 0182
Questions
Boiler repair, answered.
Can I top up the boiler pressure myself?
Usually, yes. Most sealed systems have a filling loop or a built-in filling key under the boiler, and the manual shows how to use it. If you are topping up more than once every few months, there is a leak or a failing part, and that needs an engineer.
Is it worth repairing an old boiler?
Often. If the heat exchanger is sound and parts are still made, a repair is usually the better value. If the heat exchanger is leaking, parts are obsolete or it breaks down every winter, we will tell you plainly that replacement makes more sense.
Which makes do you repair?
The common ones, including Worcester Bosch, Vaillant, Baxi, Ideal and Viessmann, and older boilers where parts are still available. Give us the make and model when you book so we can bring the likely parts.
My condensate pipe has frozen. What do I do?
If you can reach it safely, pour warm (not boiling) water along the outside pipe until it thaws, then reset the boiler. If it freezes every winter, the pipe usually needs rerouting inside, or upsizing and insulating, which we can do.
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